Background/Introduction
I have chosen to base this project around my interest and fascination with laser cutting and stencils; it will also be inspired by geometric shapes. I decided to use the same theme as textiles to develop a geometric jewellery collection. This has allowed me to take full advantage of my visual research throughout both projects. Visuals will be gathered from both primary and secondary sources such as photographs of architecture, fashion and catwalk imagery, magazines, books and museum visits.
Project Outline
I aim to create a small form of jewellery which will be inspired by geometric shapes and laser cutting.
• Initial Sketches
• Research – (Visual, Market, Technical)
• Design Sheets – A3 size
• Mood/Inspirational Board
• Paper Models
• Metal Experiments and Samples
• Final Visual
Objectives/ Tasks
Visual: Primary drawings, photographs, books, magazines and museum exhibitions
Technical: Technical File sourced from extended research into techniques from books, internet pages and workshop demonstrations.
Market: Books, Magazines, Internet, Journals, Current selling products selling in the market.
Contextual: Drawings, photographs, exhibitions, photographs, newspaper articles and books.
Design Development
• Mood/ Inspirational Board
• Initial Sketches
• Model Making
• Design Development
• Sample Making
• Extended Development
• Final Piece
Final Collection/Outcome
My aim is to have produced a small piece of jewellery that can either be worn around the neck, wrist or hand.
Above is a mood board of some of the current geometrical jewellery on the market that I find visually appealing and interesting.
Geometric Pendant
The first piece of geometric jewellery I began to design was a 3 - dimensional pendant made from a variety of sized circular disks which slot together to form a statement piece of jewellery.
My inspiration for this piece came from the architecture
around me. I was looking at all these incredible 3 - dimensional buildings and decided that it would be really interesting to make a piece of jewellery that is not just 2 - dimensional, but something which can be looked at in every single direction just like a building can be.
Design Sheet
I began by gathering my visual research together and pinning it all to a cork board so I could refer to it at all times during the designing stage. I was largely influenced by the lines and structures of objects around me, such as the construction of a Ferris wheel, scaffolding, zoo cages and geometrical buildings. From these images I began to draw patterns and shapes that I could see within the images. If you look at my design sheet above you can see the process I went through to get the bottom right hand result of the circular disk with different sized triangles within the circle.
Sketch Book
I began to consider different patterns that could be placed within the circular disks. The page above taken from my sketch book shows the same geometric print as the one I was printing within textiles. I was originally going to link the two projects together with the same geometric stencil. I decided against this in the end as I wanted to be able to keep broadening my visual research and to challenge myself more within metal.
Samples
The next stage was to produce card samples in a variety of different sizes so see if my design was functional to make. I began by cutting out different sized circles and adding the 'laser cut' triangular design in the centre. I then experimented with different ways that the circles could fit together. The best solution for this was to have small, tight slots that would be pierced into the copper and the two circles would fit tightly together. Samples can be seen above.
Visual Research
3 - Dimensional buildings designed by the architect Frank O. Gehry. These buildings really caught my eye when researching architecture. The sharp lines, unusual shapes and curves of the buildings all go beyond current modalities of structural definition.
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, Spain.
A museum of modern and contemporary art designed by the architect Frank O. Gehry.
The Walt Disney Concert Hall.
Designed by Frank O. Gehry and sculptor Bruce Gray.
Constructing the pendant
Stage Three: Once the circular disk is cut out (as shown above) the next stage is to repeat the process above for the other circular disks.
Stage Four: I have constructed the pendant together to make sure that everything fits perfectly. I wanted to make sure that the pendant looked aesthetic and pleasing to the eye. I also had to ensure that all the disks could be positioned correctly and to make sure I was pleased and happy with the overall outcome before beginning the filing and polishing stages.
Stage Five: File and polish the circular disks. Make sure that you go through each of the stages of wet and dry. To get into the small corners of each of the triangles I used my piercing saw and this ensured that the acute angles were not compromised. To get the edges of the copper so shine the final process was to use a burnisher, a metal tool which buffs and shines the product.
Technical Experiments
Enamelling - A technique of adding colour to a piece of copper.
I began experimenting with enamelling throughout the geometric project using different sized triangles. The outcomes above are my favourites as the colours are strong and vibrant and the enamelling process has worked really well on these pieces. The enamel colours that I used were kingfisher blue, amber and signal red.
As an experiment I took one of the circular disks and enamelled it in kingfisher blue. Although I like the outcome the triangular shapes within the circle lose their sharp edges through this process. The enamel is made from finely grounded glass which means that when trying to slot the disks together to make the pendant the enamel chips and breaks from the copper.
Patternation - 'Patternation is a way of colouring copper.'
I am really interested in ways to colour copper therefore I wanted to experiment with the technique of patternation. The blue/green samples above have been created by using a torch technique; I like the outcomes of these two samples as the colours blend together well. The middle sample has been created using copper nitrate and water, the copper piece is then placed into saw dust and left for three days. The outcome is really interesting, a lot of colours have appeared and various pattern shapes are visible. This might be hard to recreate as patternation is a trial and error process and each outcome can look completely different to the next. However I think this would create a really unique visual pattern on the geometric pendant and is something that I would consider next if I was to progress this project further.
Final Visuals - Geometric Pendant
I am really pleased with the outcome of this geometrical pendant. I think it looks 3 - dimensional, structural and geometric. It is different to other geometrical jewellery on the market now. The idea behind it is simplistic and yet effective. Any geometric forms can be created in copper, then the process of slotting them together to form a 3 - dimensional object can be applied. If I was to continue with this project and move it on further I think the next stage would be to start experimenting with different shapes and forms.
Geometric 'Stack a Rings'
As I enjoyed the researching, designing and making the geometric pendant I decided that I wanted to continue on with the geometric themed jewellery; therefore I began designing a ring collection. Instead of the making the 'typical/traditional' type of ring I began to think outside the box coming up with the idea of creating a range of geometric stack a rings which the wearer can stack in any arrangement onto one of their fingers.
Visual Research
Primary Research - Photographs taken of sculptural and geometrical buildings around Berlin.
Image taken from the book: Architectural Design for today written by A. Papadakes and James Steele.
Drawings
I began this project by sketching up my ideas and patterns taking inspiration from my visual and market research, together with ideas from the environment and everyday objects around me. After sketching for quite a while it was clear to see that I was focussing on solid, strong lines, which define unique and obscure shapes. From this I began to look at the lines and joinings of geometric buildings. I took photographs of these buildings and then began to draw over the images and the buildings lines to create geometrical shapes.
Market Research
Media: Sterling Silver
Media: Plastic
I wanted to gather some market research on stack a rings to see what was already in the market (hardly anything surprisingly). The only type of stackable rings I could find were these really exciting and original SOOP rings designed by Wei - Lan Scannell. Currently on exhibition at the Saatchi Museum in London. They are tiny little plastic creatures and small landscapes or cityscapes which you can stack on your finger to create a miniature scene as seen in the photograph above.
Design Sheet
Visual Research
3 - Dimensional buildings designed by the architect Frank O. Gehry. These buildings really caught my eye when researching architecture. The sharp lines, unusual shapes and curves of the buildings all go beyond current modalities of structural definition.
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, Spain.
A museum of modern and contemporary art designed by the architect Frank O. Gehry.
The Walt Disney Concert Hall.
Designed by Frank O. Gehry and sculptor Bruce Gray.
Constructing the pendant
Stage One: Drawing out the designs onto copper with exact measurements and specifications.
Stage Two: Piercing the copper design. To cut the inner design I first had to drill small holes in to each section.
Stage Three: Once the circular disk is cut out (as shown above) the next stage is to repeat the process above for the other circular disks.
Stage Four: I have constructed the pendant together to make sure that everything fits perfectly. I wanted to make sure that the pendant looked aesthetic and pleasing to the eye. I also had to ensure that all the disks could be positioned correctly and to make sure I was pleased and happy with the overall outcome before beginning the filing and polishing stages.
Stage Five: File and polish the circular disks. Make sure that you go through each of the stages of wet and dry. To get into the small corners of each of the triangles I used my piercing saw and this ensured that the acute angles were not compromised. To get the edges of the copper so shine the final process was to use a burnisher, a metal tool which buffs and shines the product.
Technical Experiments
Enamelling - A technique of adding colour to a piece of copper.
I began experimenting with enamelling throughout the geometric project using different sized triangles. The outcomes above are my favourites as the colours are strong and vibrant and the enamelling process has worked really well on these pieces. The enamel colours that I used were kingfisher blue, amber and signal red.
As an experiment I took one of the circular disks and enamelled it in kingfisher blue. Although I like the outcome the triangular shapes within the circle lose their sharp edges through this process. The enamel is made from finely grounded glass which means that when trying to slot the disks together to make the pendant the enamel chips and breaks from the copper.
Patternation - 'Patternation is a way of colouring copper.'
I am really interested in ways to colour copper therefore I wanted to experiment with the technique of patternation. The blue/green samples above have been created by using a torch technique; I like the outcomes of these two samples as the colours blend together well. The middle sample has been created using copper nitrate and water, the copper piece is then placed into saw dust and left for three days. The outcome is really interesting, a lot of colours have appeared and various pattern shapes are visible. This might be hard to recreate as patternation is a trial and error process and each outcome can look completely different to the next. However I think this would create a really unique visual pattern on the geometric pendant and is something that I would consider next if I was to progress this project further.
Final Visuals - Geometric Pendant
I am really pleased with the outcome of this geometrical pendant. I think it looks 3 - dimensional, structural and geometric. It is different to other geometrical jewellery on the market now. The idea behind it is simplistic and yet effective. Any geometric forms can be created in copper, then the process of slotting them together to form a 3 - dimensional object can be applied. If I was to continue with this project and move it on further I think the next stage would be to start experimenting with different shapes and forms.
Geometric 'Stack a Rings'
As I enjoyed the researching, designing and making the geometric pendant I decided that I wanted to continue on with the geometric themed jewellery; therefore I began designing a ring collection. Instead of the making the 'typical/traditional' type of ring I began to think outside the box coming up with the idea of creating a range of geometric stack a rings which the wearer can stack in any arrangement onto one of their fingers.
Visual Research
Primary Research - Photographs taken of sculptural and geometrical buildings around Berlin.
Image taken from the book: Architectural Design for today written by A. Papadakes and James Steele.
Drawings
I began this project by sketching up my ideas and patterns taking inspiration from my visual and market research, together with ideas from the environment and everyday objects around me. After sketching for quite a while it was clear to see that I was focussing on solid, strong lines, which define unique and obscure shapes. From this I began to look at the lines and joinings of geometric buildings. I took photographs of these buildings and then began to draw over the images and the buildings lines to create geometrical shapes.
Market Research
I wanted to gather some market research on stack a rings to see what was already in the market (hardly anything surprisingly). The only type of stackable rings I could find were these really exciting and original SOOP rings designed by Wei - Lan Scannell. Currently on exhibition at the Saatchi Museum in London. They are tiny little plastic creatures and small landscapes or cityscapes which you can stack on your finger to create a miniature scene as seen in the photograph above.
Design Sheet
This design sheet shows the beginning of my thought process. You can see clearly where my influences are coming from: geometrical architecture and also how I am constructing my own geometrical shapes.
Sketchbook
Within my sketchbook I am now beginning to experiment and look at varying arrangements of the geometric shapes. The question is whether to have them flat? Standing upright? In a composition? Attached to one another? or do I keep the shapes solid, or carry on the laser cut theme?
Corel Draw
My final stack a ring designs are a mixture of ideas which have been combined together. I wanted each ring to have a differently shape outline. Two of the rings carry on the laser cut theme from the geometrical pendant project and the other two ring designs are completely hollow inside the forms. To be able to create rings which were accurate in measurements I used the software programme Corel Draw. This programme allows me to alter the ring sizes efficiently to any desired size and I am also able to send my designs to the laser cutter from this software programme. (This was extremely useful for creating samples in different medias).
Technical Drawings
Above: Technical drawings taken from my sketchbook
One of the most useful skills I have learnt within metal this year is to always complete technical drawings before creating my final pieces in metal. This process allows me to work out the exact specifications of my jewellery designs and it also helps me see if I am going to come across any technical problems. I then use these drawings at all times whilst making the final pieces, adhering to the exact measurements.
Market Research
Designer: Yvonne Hung (The Harbinger Company)
The Harbinger Company owned and ran by Yvonne Hung produces meaningful and delicate pieces of jewellery. The company is all about designing and making extraordinary products with ordinary materials.
Yvonne Hung's influences for her work are organic and geometric patterns combined with architecture and technology. Technology plays a large part in her designing and manufacturing stages. All her designs are drawn onto computers, they are then sent to the laser cutters and then they are given back to the original designer to construct and finish by hand.
I was really drawn to her work as one of the medias she works in is wood. I am strongly interested in producing my jewellery designs in that particular media. I have been able to research the types of materials she uses and the way the jewellery pieces are finished off and constructed, which has been a really fascinating insight into wooden jewellery.
Samples and Experimentations
Designer: Yvonne Hung (The Harbinger Company)
The Harbinger Company owned and ran by Yvonne Hung produces meaningful and delicate pieces of jewellery. The company is all about designing and making extraordinary products with ordinary materials.
Yvonne Hung's influences for her work are organic and geometric patterns combined with architecture and technology. Technology plays a large part in her designing and manufacturing stages. All her designs are drawn onto computers, they are then sent to the laser cutters and then they are given back to the original designer to construct and finish by hand.
I was really drawn to her work as one of the medias she works in is wood. I am strongly interested in producing my jewellery designs in that particular media. I have been able to research the types of materials she uses and the way the jewellery pieces are finished off and constructed, which has been a really fascinating insight into wooden jewellery.
Samples and Experimentations
Although creating my final geometric ring collection in metal, this section will show a variety of samples and experiments that I have created in different medias that I have had cut on the laser cutter.
Media: Wood
Geometric ring samples in wood
Final visual of the wooden geometric rings
An alternative way of wearing the rings. This selection of rings can easily be threaded onto a piece of ribbon or a chain and worn as a neck piece.
Media: Perspex
Geometric ring samples in 5mm Perspex.
Final Visual - The geometric rings are really flexible in how they can be worn. The image above shows just one of the selected rings displayed on a hand model.
Final Visual - Stacking the Perspex rings onto one finger. I have chosen to use vibrant colours for the samples as this clearly shows the different geometric shapes and layering. The colours which I personally prefer are the green and pink as they complement each other well.
The alternative way of wearing the rings - interesting and vibrant, the designs layered over one another form a cluster of geometric forms.
Media: Copper and Enamel
Geometric ring sample made in copper and then enamelled in the colour, kingfisher blue.
Final Visual - Although strong in colour and presence, this experimental outcome would not be comfortable to wear as the edges of the metal are sharp and the enamels are made from grounded glass. This piece would most likely have to kept as a one - off statement piece or used just as a development sample.
Media: Copper
Geometric rings made from copper. The above images are of some of my final rings after they have been filed and polished by using the different grades of wet and dry. After I have polished the rings I have then applied a Renaissance wax which stops the copper for a short while from oxidising.
Final Visual - Geometric Ring Collection
I am very happy with the way this collection of stack a rings has turned out. They are not the conventional types of rings you would buy in a shop, but I didn't want them to be. I wanted a dramatic statement piece of jewellery. This is a 'one of a kind' piece which stands out from any other designs that are currently on the market. In my eyes the piece resembles geometric form with an opportunity to wear the rings in any order or pattern.
